One thing I have learned from living in this wonderful country (it has already been fourteen years since I chose to continue my life here) is that, to truly get to know it, enchanting beaches, breathtaking sunsets and villages with whitewashed houses and blue windows simply aren’t enough. Above all, you need to sit down at a table!

Rule number one: forget about the clock, let yourself be captivated by the aromas of the food and that special atmosphere you can only experience in a genuine Greek taverna.

Imagine a courtyard shaded by a pergola, a few simply laid tables, the irresistible smell of grilled meat, a little cat sleeping beneath a chair and the owner stopping for a chat as though you were old friends.

But be careful, not all tavernas are the same, and a wooden chair or a checked tablecloth is certainly no guarantee of an authentic experience.

But how can you recognise one and know whether the food is good?

I’m going to share a few secrets I’ve learned over the years, little tricks that rarely let me down.

First of all, get used to the idea that you don’t need a special occasion to eat at a taverna. For Greeks, a taverna is a place to meet and share moments together, to get lost in endless discussions that almost never reach a conclusion or leave everyone in agreement, to listen to legendary stories or simply have a good laugh. It’s somewhere families love to gather on Sundays, where friends meet after work and, above all, where nobody is ever in any particular hurry to leave.

And this is precisely what I love most: food isn’t just something we eat to survive, but above all a wonderful opportunity to spend time together.

How to spot an authentic Greek taverna

It doesn’t matter whether it’s right by the sea or tucked away in a hidden corner of a village. There are no rules that determine a taverna’s authenticity based on its location. Instead, take a look at who’s already sitting at the tables or who comes in to eat. If you see a Greek family or a group of friends sharing several dishes, that’s your first clue. Greeks tend to be creatures of habit, and when they find a taverna they like, they keep going back again and again.

The menu is another clue. When you’re faced with hundreds of dishes to choose from, especially if they’re completely different from one another, you might want to think twice. Unless a kitchen has a particularly large team of chefs, it’s unlikely to be able to prepare such a huge variety of dishes equally well.

One key question that can help you work out whether you’re in the right place is “Ti echete simera?” – What do you have today? You might discover dishes that aren’t listed on the menu, perhaps seasonal specialities or recipes that require long, slow cooking, such as the delicious stifado.

Never judge a place by its appearance. A taverna might not have sophisticated furnishings, a modern interior or fashionable accessories. It might be extremely simple, with paper placemats and the ever-present little pot of basil, yet hide an extraordinary kitchen. That doesn’t mean a beautifully decorated taverna is necessarily touristy or serves poor food. Always look at all the little details that will help you recognise one of those special little places, as I like to call them, because ultimately what really matters is the care taken in preparing the food, cleanliness and the quality of the ingredients.

How to avoid tourist traps

First of all, let’s make one thing clear: a tourist-oriented taverna isn’t necessarily a bad taverna. There are restaurants in beautiful seafront locations, frequented by tourists throughout the summer season, that are extremely well run and serve excellent food.

However, if there are waiters outside desperately trying to persuade you to come in, without even giving you the chance to read the menu in peace, that’s when I personally become suspicious. It’s a very common practice in tourist destinations and doesn’t automatically mean the food will be bad, but I prefer to make my own choice without any pressure.

Photographs on the menu. I really don’t like them at all, although I understand that restaurants with an international clientele sometimes use them to help customers understand what they can order. But if all the pictures look the same and Greek or local specialities are practically nowhere to be seen, then I’d suggest moving on to the next taverna.

I’ll tell you something: in the genuine tavernas where I personally go to eat, not one of them has photographs or tablets displaying the dishes…

Be careful with fish sold by weight

This is a very important detail. In fish tavernas (psarotaverna), certain types of fish are not sold by the portion but by the kilo. So, before ordering, always ask the price of the fish you choose from the display counter or that is offered to you, to avoid any unpleasant surprises. A restaurant’s reliability can also be judged by how transparently it provides this information.

Below are the main types of fish, in addition to lobster, that are usually sold by the kilo:

Sea bream (Τσιπούρα)

Lavraki (Λαβράκι)

Sea bass or European seabass

Red porgy Fagri (Φαγκρί)

Red porgy Synagrida (Συναγρίδα)

White grouper Sfyrida (Σφυρίδα)

Dusky grouper Rofos (Ροφός)

White seabream Sargos (Σαργός)

Scorpionfish Skorpina (Σκορπίνα)

Red mullet Barbouni (Μπαρμπούνι)

Striped red mullet Koutsomoura (Κουτσομούρα)

Common pandora Lithrini (Λυθρίνι)

What type of taverna should you choose?

One of the wonderful things about Greece is its variety. Every type of eating establishment has its own distinct identity, offering a menu that reflects its particular specialities, and the different types of establishments even have their own names.

Knowing what they’re called in Greek will certainly help you decide where to eat.

Taverna (Ταβέρνα)

The traditional Greek eating establishment par excellence, serving Greek dishes, appetisers, meat, vegetables and homemade recipes that can vary from island to island. The cuisine tends to be simple, but particular care goes into its preparation.

Psarotaverna (Ψαροταβέρνα)

The word psari means fish in Greek, so as you can imagine, this is a taverna specialising in seafood. Calamari, octopus, prawns, sea bream, sea bass and just about every other seafood delicacy you can think of. The most genuine ones are those offering the catch of the day, with freshness guaranteed.

Psistaria (Ψησταριά)

A taverna specialising in grilled meat. The name comes from the Greek verb meaning to grill or roast. Souvlaki (meat skewers), lamb chops, seasoned sausages and all kinds of meat take centre stage on the menu.

Mezedopoleio (Μεζεδοπωλείο)

I absolutely love these places! They mainly serve mezedes (appetisers), small dishes meant for sharing, naturally accompanied by wine, ouzo or my beloved tsipouro. You’ll find everything here: meat, fish, vegetables, dips, purées and so many other delicious things that choosing what to order can drive you crazy. Recipes firmly rooted in traditional Greek cuisine, although sometimes with an innovative twist. The idea is always the same: share everything and taste a little of it all.

So, now you’ve got a few more tips up your sleeve. Let yourself be enchanted by the aromas and the flavours of the spices, and don’t worry too much about your waistline. Tomorrow you can always swim for an extra hour!