The small city of Epidaurus, is found in the Argolis region in the first finger of the Peloponnese coming from Athens.
A part of Greece where myths and legends have a global importance, a territory that collects wonderful archaeological sites and where even today the weight of the past is more present than ever.
There are many things to see in Epidaurus, certainly its fame is due to the Ancient Theater, a thousand-year-old construction with ingenious architecture that together with a mystical religious flavor is one of the main attractions for a traveling trip in the Peloponnese. A masterly symmetry dated 4th century BC designed by the young architect Polykleitos, is located in the western part of Mount Cinortion and was part of the complex of buildings that formed the Temple of Asclepius the God of Medicine.
With a typical Hellenistic shape, it has three distinct areas, the semicircular cavea with steps where the audience sits, the orchestra in the center and the stage that originally had two floors and a proscenium with a diameter of twenty meters. Nowadays it has 55 steps and can accommodate up to 14,000 spectators. In the past there were 34 stairs, the remaining ones were built in the Roman period and it is thought that these numbers are not a coincidence but seem to be linked to the Golden Section or the irrational number 1, 6180339887 to which symbolic and religious meanings were linked.
The Ancient Theater of Epidaurus is right in the middle of a rich and luxuriant vegetation that until the mid-nineteenth century was almost forgotten because it was well hidden by trees that grew wildly on the slopes of the hill. The first excavations began in the second half of the nineteenth century and continued until 2016, thus giving new life to this extraordinary place. Given its excellent state of preservation and its surprising acoustics, it is used for theatrical performances and concerts. Try playing the coin game, climb up to the last step and from the proscenium make someone else drop money, you will hear the clinking even from a distance as if it were next to you without the need for speakers or microphones. To this day it is a mystery how it is possible but the beauty is also this even if scientifically speaking this phenomenon is attributed to the limestone of which the steps are made which acts as a filter eliminating the low frequencies of the sounds.
In the area of the Ancient Theater of Epidaurus, there is also the Temple of Asklepion one of the most important after the one found on the island of Kos in Ancient Greece. Dedicated to Asklepios, son of Apollo and God of Medicine (born in Trikala, not Argolis), it was actually built before the theatre, which was an expansion and enrichment of the site. It is said that the music, singing and games were connected to the cult, having beneficial effects on the health and spirit of the sick. Unfortunately, today only a few columns remain of the temple, while some sculptures that decorated it are preserved in the Archaeological Museum of Athens.
Continuing to discover the area, you can also find the Tholos, a circular building completely made of white marble. A work that preserves the oldest mystery in the world, as there are no traces of what its true function actually was. It was also designed and built by Polykleitos the Younger, who wrote a book about it, describing its functions and use, but unfortunately it was lost and took the secret with it.
Right next to the Tholos, there is the Enkoimeteria or Abaton, the main medical building of the sanctuary. In short, it was the patients’ dormitory, a modern two-story hotel with 160 rooms, real suites, some with views of the courtyards full of flowers and trees. Its location had a very specific meaning, being close to the temple of Asklepion, the God could enter the patients’ dreams so that the following morning the priest-doctors could interpret their dreams to then decide on the therapy to follow for healing.
And then the Stadium where athletic events were organized as a method of treatment and recovery of the sick. It dates back to the 5th century BC and every 4 years games were held where everyone could participate and compete. Finally, the Gymnasium where patients did physical exercise, an integral program for the success of the recovery. In the main courtyard during the Roman period an Odeon was also built where pantomimes and singing competitions were organized.
How to get to Epidaurus
Let’s start by saying that the public transport connections are not the best. As always, it would be better to rent a car to be able to get around independently and without worrying about timetables, since there are so many things to do and see in the Peloponnese, at least in this part. You could also participate in the many organized excursions that are offered from Athens if you want, if you don’t want to drive.
With the car from Athens, just take the highway to Corinth, exit at the junction for Epidaurus and follow the road signs.
With the bus, which is feasible but definitely demanding, you can leave from the capital from Terminal A (Kifissou 100) which is usually on Sundays and Fridays, or always take the bus or train to Nafplio and from there another bus that takes you directly to the archaeological area. The line is active every day and at various times of the day.
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